A New Reason to Visit Denmark

Written By Autumn Anderson

Experience James Turrell's newest Skyspace. Stay in Aarhus. Discover one of Scandinavia's most creative cities.

Photo by, Adam Mørk, ‘As Seen Below’, June 2026

When I was a child, I used to put on my grandmother's glasses and stumble around the house, amazed by how dramatically they changed the world around me.

On long car rides, I'd press my forehead against the window and squint until trees dissolved into brushstrokes, mountains blurred into watercolor, and passing billboards became abstract bands of color.

I didn't have words like perception or perspective. I only knew that I loved discovering how easily the world could change without the world changing at all.

Decades later, I experienced the work of James Turrell.

Photo by, Autumn Anderson, ‘Three Gems’

For centuries, artists have tried to capture light. Vermeer rendered its quiet precision. Turner dissolved landscapes into atmosphere. James Turrell takes that idea one step further. He removes the canvas altogether. He doesn't paint light. He builds with it. And in doing so, he asks a question no painter could: What if light isn't the subject of the artwork? What if it is the artwork?

For more than fifty years, the American artist has devoted his career to a deceptively simple question:

What does it actually mean to see?

His medium is often described as light. Architecture. Space. Color.

But none of those quite captures it.

Turrell creates places where perception itself becomes the artwork.

His newest installation, As Seen Below, opened on June 19, 2026, at ARoS Art Museum in Aarhus, Denmark. More than a decade in the making, it is the 100th Skyspace he has created and the largest ever installed within a museum context. It completes ARoS' long envisioned expansion and represents one of the most ambitious works of his career.

Unlike a painting, there is nothing to stand in front of.

Unlike a sculpture, there is nothing to walk around.

Visitors enter a vast circular chamber, where the installation unfolds in several distinct ways. Sometimes the dome opens to the sky, removing familiar points of reference until the atmosphere itself seems transformed. At other moments, the sky disappears entirely, leaving light and color to reshape the space from within. During sunrise and sunset, carefully orchestrated shifts in light alter your perception of the sky overhead, creating one of Turrell's most celebrated effects.

As Turrell himself has said:

"The architecture brings the sky close, so you realize that the very act of seeing is the artwork itself."

His work doesn't trick you.

It reminds you that you've been interpreting the world all along.

James Turrell has often said that light is not simply what allows us to see. It is the thing we are seeing. Throughout his career, he has explored the remarkable fact that perception is not passive. The eye and brain are constantly constructing reality, often without us realizing it.

Turrell's best known project, Roden Crater in northern Arizona, has occupied him for decades. Inside a dormant volcanic crater, he is transforming the landscape itself into an observatory for light, time, and celestial events. His Skyspaces around the world are expressions of the same lifelong inquiry, each asking visitors to pause long enough to notice something they normally overlook.

As Seen Below is perhaps the clearest invitation yet.

There is no storyline to follow.

No historical context to memorize.

No correct interpretation written on the wall label.

Only the changing sky.

The changing light.

And your own experience of both.

That openness feels especially fitting in Denmark, where winter days can be startlingly short and summer evenings seem reluctant to end. Light shapes daily life here in obvious and subtle ways, from architecture designed to capture every available hour of daylight to a culture that instinctively gathers outdoors when the sun finally lingers. Turrell's work feels less like an imported monument than a conversation with the place itself.

It rewards the effort of your attention.

Aarhus is not, for most international travelers, a destination that accidentally ends up on an itinerary. Visiting requires intention. For many travelers, it means leaving Copenhagen, boarding a train, and making a deliberate 3 hour journey.

I think that's precisely the point.

Some experiences deserve to be the reason for the journey.

This one asks for your attention.

If you go, resist the urge to treat this as another museum stop to check off before lunch. Give it time. Experience it during the day. Reserve a Twilight Experience if your schedule allows. Notice how your perception shifts from one visit to the next.

Then leave the museum and keep looking up.

Why Make the Journey?

As Seen Below opened to the public in June 2026, marking the completion of ARoS' long planned expansion and the unveiling of James Turrell's 100th Skyspace. For anyone who has followed his work or hoped to experience one of his immersive light installations, there has never been a better reason to add Aarhus to a Scandinavian itinerary.

Continue Exploring James Turrell

If As Seen Below leaves you wanting more, it isn't the end of the story.

James Turrell's Skyspaces can be found across six continents, in museums, universities, vineyards, chapels, sculpture parks, and remote landscapes.

If I were planning this trip

Scandinavian waterfront

If you're traveling to Denmark for James Turrell's As Seen Below – The Dome, I would split my time between Copenhagen and Aarhus.

Begin with a night in Copenhagen before taking the train to Aarhus, where you'll spend two nights immersed in one of Scandinavia's most creative cities. After experiencing Turrell's extraordinary new Skyspace at ARoS, return to Copenhagen for three more nights to explore the Danish capital's neighborhoods, museums, design, and remarkable food scene before flying home.

For this itinerary, I would choose the hotels based on how you want each part of the journey to feel.

Do you want an intimate boutique hotel that feels unmistakably Danish?

A contemporary luxury hotel rooted in Scandinavian design and sustainability?

A historic hotel at the heart of Aarhus?

Or a quiet design hotel that lets the city, and the art, take center stage?

Each of these hotels offers something different, but all complement a journey designed around one of Europe's most compelling new cultural experiences while placing you within easy reach of the neighborhoods, museums, and restaurants that make both Copenhagen and Aarhus so rewarding to explore.

Stay

Hotel Sanders, Copenhagen

Hotel Sanders, Copenhagen

If you're looking for an intimate boutique hotel that feels unmistakably Copenhagen, this is where I'd book you. Set in the historic center just behind Nyhavn, Hotel Sanders pairs warm Danish design with the feeling of a beautifully considered private home. Its 54 individually designed rooms range from cozy Coupé rooms to spacious suites, while the separate three-bedroom Sanders Residence offers even more room for families or friends traveling together.

The hotel is particularly well suited to this itinerary. Sanders can arrange a private contemporary art walk with local curators, a behind-the-scenes visit to the Royal Theatre, or an afternoon aboard its vintage mahogany boat. Back at the hotel, there's Kitchen for an easy dinner, Tata for cocktails, and the rooftop Conservatory for a quiet start to the day.

As a Fora Reserve partner, guests who book through me enjoy exclusive amenities designed to elevate their stay, including:

  • Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability

  • Daily breakfast for two

  • A generous hotel credit

  • Early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability

  • Complimentary Wi-Fi

  • Personalized Danish chocolates and welcome card

  • Guests booking One-Bedroom Suites or Sanders Suites also receive a complimentary one-way airport transfer from Copenhagen Airport when arranged in advance.

Why I'd book it: Sanders gives you more than a beautiful place to stay. It offers a thoughtful, distinctly Danish way into Copenhagen, with the kind of personal access and sense of place that can make a few days in the city feel much richer.

1 Hotel, Copenhagen

1 Hotel, Copenhagen

If you're looking for contemporary luxury rooted in Scandinavian design and sustainability, this is where I'd book you. It offers a fresh perspective on Copenhagen—one that feels every bit as thoughtful and forward-looking as the city itself.

Located beside the seventeenth-century Round Tower and bordering the lively Latin Quarter, 1 Hotel Copenhagen places many of the city's best museums, restaurants, and neighborhoods within easy walking distance. The hotel's nature-inspired interiors, wellness focus, and commitment to sustainability create a calm retreat in the middle of one of Europe's most livable capitals.

For this itinerary, it's an ideal base for travelers who want to experience both historic Copenhagen and its modern creative energy. Spend the day wandering centuries-old streets before returning to a hotel that feels unmistakably contemporary—a reflection of the city's enduring commitment to thoughtful design and environmental stewardship.

Guests booking through me receive exclusive amenities including:

  • A generous food and beverage credit

  • Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability

  • Early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability

Why I'd book it: Copenhagen has long been a global leader in design and sustainability, and 1 Hotel embodies both. It's the perfect choice for travelers who appreciate contemporary luxury and want their hotel to reflect the city's progressive spirit.

Charlottehaven, Copenhagen

Charlottehaven, Copenhagen

If you're traveling with family or planning a longer stay in Copenhagen, this is where I'd book you. Charlottehaven combines the comfort and flexibility of an apartment with the convenience and service of a hotel, making it one of the city's best options for travelers who need a little more room to settle in. In fact, clients of mine returned from a stay here just a couple of weeks ago and absolutely loved it, making this a recommendation I'd happily make again.

Located in the leafy Østerbro neighborhood, Charlottehaven offers spacious apartment-style accommodations complete with kitchens and generous living spaces while remaining well connected to the city center. It provides the freedom to experience Copenhagen at your own pace, whether that means lingering over breakfast before heading into the city or enjoying a quieter evening away from the busiest tourist areas.

For this itinerary, Charlottehaven works especially well for families or anyone planning to spend several days exploring Copenhagen before continuing on to Aarhus. The additional space makes it easy to unpack, relax, and feel at home between days of sightseeing.

Why I'd book it: Not every trip calls for a boutique hotel. Charlottehaven offers something equally valuable—space, flexibility, and the ability to experience Copenhagen like a local. For families or longer stays, I think it's one of the smartest choices in the city.

Hotel Royal, Aarhus

Hotel Royal, Aarhus

If you're looking for historic charm and a true sense of place, this is where I'd book you. Welcoming guests for more than 175 years, Hotel Royal feels woven into the fabric of Aarhus itself.

Located in the heart of Denmark's second city, Hotel Royal pairs classic architecture with updated interiors that balance traditional elegance and contemporary comfort. Many of Aarhus's most important cultural attractions—including ARoS, the cathedral, and the Latin Quarter—are all within easy walking distance, making it an ideal base for exploring on foot.

For this itinerary, I can't think of a better location. Spend the day immersed in James Turrell's extraordinary Skyspace at ARoS, wander the city's cafés and boutiques, then return to Queen's Garden for cocktails before dinner. The hotel's central location makes it easy to experience Aarhus without ever feeling rushed.

Why I'd book it: Hotel Royal gives visitors something increasingly rare—a hotel with genuine history that still feels relevant today. It complements Aarhus's blend of heritage and contemporary creativity beautifully.

Hotel Oasia, Aarhus

Hotel Oasia, Aarhus

If you're drawn to clean Scandinavian design and value a peaceful night's sleep after a day of exploring, this is where I'd book you. Hotel Oasia proves that thoughtful simplicity can be every bit as luxurious as grand hotels.

Located in a quieter part of Aarhus just a short walk from the city center and train station, Oasia offers bright, uncluttered interiors inspired by Danish design principles. Rooms feature handcrafted Hästens beds—one of Scandinavia's most respected luxury bedmakers—making comfort one of the hotel's defining features.

For this itinerary, Oasia provides a calm retreat after full days spent exploring ARoS, the waterfront, and Aarhus's historic neighborhoods. Families will also appreciate the larger room configurations, including accommodations that comfortably sleep four.

Why I'd book it: Aarhus isn't a city that demands extravagance—it rewards curiosity. Hotel Oasia reflects that spirit perfectly, offering thoughtful design, exceptional comfort, and a quiet place to recharge before another day discovering one of Scandinavia's most creative cities.

At the Table

  • Contemporary smørrebrød makes a very good argument for lingering over Denmark’s most traditional lunch.

    Perfect for: A leisurely Copenhagen afternoon.

  • Neapolitan-style sourdough pizza and one of the places recent clients came home still talking about.

    Perfect for: An easy dinner after a full day exploring.

  • Sometimes you don't need another beautiful restaurant. You need a really good burger.

    Perfect for: A casual lunch between museums and shops.

  • Come for the beer and the lively Kødbyen atmosphere; the barbecue makes a very good excuse to stay.

    Perfect for: A fun, unfussy Copenhagen night.

  • Chef Wassim Hallal turns dinner into an experience worthy of being part of the reason you came to Aarhus.

    Perfect for: The celebratory dinner of the trip.

  • The menu changes with what arrives from the restaurant's farmers, fishermen, and producers, letting the ingredients decide what's for dinner.

    Perfect for: Curious eaters who want a taste of contemporary Aarhus.

Browse

Copenhagen has made an art of designing the things we live with every day, and some of the best browsing in the city is simply seeing what happens when that philosophy is applied to everything from a chair to a coffee cup. Start at HAY House, where contemporary Danish furniture, lighting, textiles, and wonderfully clever everyday objects fill the upper floors overlooking Amagertorv. I have HAY outdoor furniture at home and have loved their designs for years, so this is a stop I'd make myself.

For a deeper dive: I also love Magazine B, whose documentary-style magazines devote an entire issue to exploring a single brand. Their HAY issue is an excellent companion for anyone interested in the ideas, people, and design philosophy behind the objects you're seeing.

Then keep looking.

Visit Studio Arhoj for colorful ceramics and glass made in its Copenhagen workshop, or seek out Inge Vincents on Jægersborggade for her remarkably thin, hand-thrown porcelain. Spend some time at Illums Bolighus, where generations of Scandinavian furniture, lighting, ceramics, and objects offer something close to an education in Danish design—even if you have absolutely no intention of bringing home a chair.

In Aarhus, stop into 1+1 Textil & Design, where the work of Danish ceramicists, jewelers, textile artists, and other craftspeople makes it easy to discover a maker you didn't know you were looking for. For something more collectible, browse Nordiske Unika for Nordic ceramics, art, and design objects with a little history behind them.

The best thing to bring home from Denmark may not be something you recognize by name.

It might simply be the beautifully made object you didn't know you needed until you picked it up.

Wear

Editorial Note: The products, books, and clothing featured throughout The Cordawn Journal are selected because I believe they enhance the journey. Unless otherwise noted, these are non-affiliate links—I don't receive a commission if you purchase them. My recommendations are editorial, not sponsored.

Pictured Pieces

Alternatives

Bring Home

  • A HAY Kaleido tray — HAY House

  • A HAY Flare candleholder — HAY House

  • A Studio Arhoj Figurine — Studio Arhoj

  • A wafer-thin porcelain cup or vessel — Inge Vincents

  • A Georg Jensen Cobra candleholder — Illums Bolighus

  • A Kay Bojesen Monkey — Illums Bolighus

  • A piece of contemporary Danish craft — 1+1 Textil & Design, chosen because you like it rather than because it's famous

  • A one-of-a-kind Nordic ceramic — Nordiske Unika

  • Last but not least, as you make your way through CPH, make sure you leave enough time to pick up Royal Dansk butter cookies in the blue tin.

An Invitation

Planning a trip to Denmark?

I'd be delighted to help you build a journey around the art, design, food, and places worth traveling for.

Start Planning
Autumn Anderson
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